In “Marie Antoinette” on PBS, our heroine makes a fashion statement wherever she goes. Although her dresses dazzle and her jewelry is jubilant, something even more iconic tops it all off: an 18th-century wig that has become almost synonymous with her style.

Sometimes called a Marie Antoinette wig, this type of fashion quickly became a status symbol in the young Queen’s time. Even after more than two centuries, these wigs inspire visual storytelling on stage and TV — and even at costume parties.

But what’s the history behind the hairstyle? Let’s explore how these iconic wigs shaped history one curl at a time — and don’t forget to see them in action in “Marie Antoinette” Season 2, premiering March 23 on PBS!

The Lasting Impact of Marie Antoinette’s Hairstyles

You may not realize it, but you’ve likely seen Marie Antoinette’s iconic hairstyles in some of your favorite stage plays, movies and shows,  including “Marie Antoinette” on PBS. It’s clear that the Queen is still influencing our closets today — but why?

It all comes down to visual storytelling. Whether it’s a wig with perfect historical authenticity or a funny Halloween party prop, these hairstyles send various messages to onlookers — from “luxurious elegance” to “crazy creativity.” That’s exactly how Marie Antoinette used them to carve out her new identity in the French court. When we use the same styles today, we’re blending her story with our own, weaving modern threads into the tapestry of fashion history. 

3 Top Marie Antoinette Hairstyles

Speaking of wild wigs, there are plenty to see in “Marie Antoinette” Season 2. But which of our heroine’s hairstyles really made history? Let’s take a look:

#1: The Ship

Called “coiffure à l'Indépendance ou le Triomphe de la liberté,” this hairstyle was a celebration of a French naval victory in 1778 called the Battle of Ushant. Marie Antoinette combined her natural hair and artificial hairpieces to create a base for a huge model frigate right on top of her head (6). This became part of an enduring trend: celebrating current events or adding statement pieces to hairstyles (3, 6).

#2: The Pouf

Poufs were built around wire scaffolding and often included a combination of natural hair, horsehair and artificial human hair. The whole style was dusted with flour and often looked like a pastry. There’s some speculation that this led to the myth that Marie Antoinette said, “let them eat cake” (7). 

#3: The Hedgehog

Also known as the hérisson, this rounded hairstyle was often made of curls resembling a hedgehog on women’s heads. Marie Antoinette’s hairdresser, Léonard Autié, invented the style along with many others 2, 8).

The History of Wigs in Marie Antoinette’s Era

Marie Antoinette lived during what’s known as the Rococo era. Lasting from 1700 to 1770, this period was born in Paris, where artists purposefully broke away from the design choices Louis XIV made for the Palace of Versailles. Art and architecture styles showcased elegant curves and asymmetrical shapes, all with white, gold and light pastel coloring (1, 2). 

What about Rococo hair? Starting in the 1600s, there was a prevailing belief that baldness in men indicated weakness — perhaps related to the fact that mercury, the treatment for syphilis, caused hair loss. As a result, men helped popularize wigs to display the health and power of long, flowing locks. Kings Louis XIII and Louis XIV, in particular, played significant roles in using their royalty to make wigs more about status than stigma (3). 

By the beginning of the Rococo period, hairstyles for men and women were designed for simplicity. However, things changed when Marie Antoinette and her extravagant dresses took the throne. As the Queen’s unflappable fashion sense stole the spotlight, everyone wanted her hot hairstyle trends: plumes, curls, ribbons, pearls and even model ships (2).

By the 1780s, it probably seemed like ladies were wearing more wire and cushioning than actual hair. Thanks in part to Marie Antoinette, the new trend was styling natural hair and artificial hairpieces around wire framing to create massive, hat-like headdresses (3). Some would even add powder made of finely ground starch and colored gray to give the illusion of wisdom or in pastel hues that matched the latest fashions (2).

These wigs became popular fast, and the number of master wigmakers in Paris increased from 200 in 1673 to 945 in 1771. Experts often used women’s hair for the highest-priced wigs, with blonde, silver-gray and black locks in high demand and naturally curly hair bringing in the most money (4). For those who didn’t want cheaper options like horse or goat hair, there was always wig theft — including creative methods like hiding on perches and snagging the wigs as people walked by or even cutting holes in the backs of carriages (4, 2). 

But not everyone was sold on the big hair craze. Just as they have throughout the centuries, parents in the Rococo era expressed some confusion about the latest trends. In March 1775, Marie Antoinette’s mother warned her against all the extravagance, writing: “(…) it concerns your headdress, which they say is 36 inches high from the roots and adorned with numerous feathers and ribbons that hold it all together! (…) A pretty young queen, so full of grace, has no need of such follies” (3).

Despite some parental concerns, Marie Antoinette’s elaborate hairstyle choices became a significant part of her rule. 

As a young Austrian girl, she used her hair to develop the French identity necessary to be considered worthy of her husband and throne (5). Her hair was also an opportunity to assert autonomy in a controlling court with strict social expectations (7). Political enemies were quick to ridicule her extravagance — and when she had her hair cut and chose simpler styles after the birth of her first child, rivals claimed that she’d caused the accessories industry to collapse (5).

After being chased out of Versailles during the French Revolution, Marie Antoinette’s locks are said to have turned white seemingly overnight (5). In the moments before her fated trip to the guillotine, the executioner cut her hair short (7) — not just an act of humiliation but a metaphor for the Queen’s identity and supposed extravagance being stripped away in her final moments.

Meet Marie Antoinette’s Wigs

From ribbons, pearls and flowers to a triumphant sailing ship, Marie Antoinette’s iconic wigs tell a story all their own. They represented her identity as an Austrian, a French royal and an individual in unwelcoming circumstances, allowing her both agency and elegance. Even in her final moments, the Queen’s hair was a crucial reflection of her place in history.

Of course, it’s one thing to read about these incredible wigs and another to see them in action. If you want to meet Marie Antoinette’s hair up close (and see Quinet’s work come to life!), watch “Marie Antoinette” Season 2 on PBS, premiering March 23.

Sources

1: Britannica

https://www.britannica.com/art/Rococo 

2: “Historical Wig Styling: Ancient Egypt to the 1830s” by Allison Lowery

3: Swiss National Museum

https://blog.nationalmuseum.ch/en/2023/02/the-power-and-pomp-of-the-wig/ 

4: National Geographic

https://www.nationalgeographic.com/premium/article/big-hair-wigs-louis-xiv-mens-fashion 

5: JSTOR Daily

https://daily.jstor.org/the-political-power-of-marie-antoinettes-hair/ 

6: Franco-American Museum of the Château de Blérancourt

https://museefrancoamericain.fr/collection/objet/coiffure-de-lindependance-ou-le-triomphe-de-la-liberte 

7: La France Sauvée ou le Tyran Détrôné: A Dramaturgical Casebook

https://uw.pressbooks.pub/lafrancesauvee/chapter/18th-century-fashion-the-pouf/ 

8: La France Sauvée ou le Tyran Détrôné: A Dramaturgical Casebook

https://uw.pressbooks.pub/lafrancesauvee/chapter/style-evolution-of-marie-antoinette-leonard-autie/